Embroidering on Clothes: Needles, Stabilizers and Thread
How to choose needle, stabilizer and thread for different garments, especially stretchy and delicate fabrics.
Match the setup to the fabric
| Garment fabric | Needle | Stabilizer | Thread |
|---|---|---|---|
| Denim, canvas (jacket, tote) | Sharp embroidery needle size 3 to 5, or a chenille needle size 22. A thimble helps | None needed | 3 to 6 strands, or pearl cotton size 5 or 8 |
| Woven cotton shirt | Embroidery needle size 7 to 9 | None, or light tear-away if the fabric is thin | 2 strands |
| T-shirt and other knits | Fine embroidery needle size 7 to 9. A ballpoint needle helps on fine knits | Required. Iron-on or stick-on stabilizer on the wrong side, or water-soluble on top | 2 or 3 strands. Keep stitches short |
| Delicate fabric (silk, voile) | Finest needle that takes the thread, size 9 or 10 | Water-soluble stabilizer, or a layer of cotton organdie behind | 1 or 2 strands |
| Sweater knits | Blunt tapestry needle so it does not split the yarn | Water-soluble stabilizer on top | Yarn or all 6 strands |
Rules for stretch fabric
- Do not stretch the fabric in the hoop. Hoop the stabilizer and fabric together, flat and relaxed.
- Keep stitches under about 3/8 in (1 cm). Long stitches snag and go slack when the fabric stretches.
- Avoid dense filled areas on thin knits. They make a stiff patch that pulls.
- The embroidered area will not stretch much afterwards. Do not embroider where the garment has to stretch to get on, such as a tight neckline.
Before you start on a real garment
- Wash and dry the garment first so it shrinks before the stitching goes on.
- Test the marking pen, stabilizer and a few stitches somewhere hidden, such as inside a hem.
- Check you can get a hoop, or at least your hand, behind the area. Pockets and cuffs are awkward.
- Finish thread ends securely by weaving, not knots. Clothes get far more wear than a framed piece.