Materials & Tools

What each supply is, when you need it, how to choose one, and what you can use instead. Open any item for the details.

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Needles

Hand-sewing needles (sharps)

What it is: Medium-length needles with a small round eye and a sharp point, sold in packs of mixed sizes.
Used for: General hand sewing, such as sewing on buttons, hemming and backstitching seams.
When you need it: From your first hand-sewn repair onward.
How to choose: Sharps range from size 1 (thick and long) to 12 (fine and short). Size 7 or 8 suits most cotton and shirt fabrics, size 5 or 6 suits denim and coats, and size 9 or 10 suits thin silk and lining.
Alternatives: Betweens (quilting needles) are shorter and good for tiny stitches; milliners are longer.
Safety and care: Bent or rusty needles snag fabric, so discard them. Store in a needle book, and count them after a project.
Used in: How to Thread a Needle, Sew a Missing Button Back On, Fix a Loose or Fallen Hem

Embroidery (crewel) needles

What it is: Needles with a sharp point and a long, oval eye to carry several strands of floss.
Used for: Surface embroidery with floss on tightly woven fabric, and decorative visible mending.
When you need it: When you begin embroidery or sew with more than one strand of floss.
How to choose: Sizes 1 to 10; the higher the number, the finer. Size 3 or 4 suits six strands, size 5 or 6 suits three strands, and size 7 to 9 suits one or two strands.
Alternatives: Sharps with a larger eye work for one or two strands. A chenille needle suits thick yarn.
Safety and care: The point is sharp and can split threads in loosely woven fabric.
Used in: Running Stitch, Backstitch, Close a Small Hole in Woven or Fine Knit Fabric

Tapestry needles

What it is: Blunt-tipped needles with a large eye, available in sizes 13 to 28.
Used for: Cross-stitch on Aida and evenweave, darning knits and weaving in yarn ends.
When you need it: When you begin cross-stitch or darn a sock or sweater.
How to choose: Size 24 suits 14-count Aida, size 26 suits 18-count, size 22 suits 11-count. For darning knits, use size 18 or 20.
Alternatives: A blunt-ended darning needle or a bodkin works for yarn.
Safety and care: The blunt tip does not pierce knit loops, which helps protect delicate knitwear.
Used in: The Basic Full Cross-Stitch, Darning, Darn a Hole in a Sweater or Sock

Sewing machine needles

What it is: Needles with a flat shank and a point shaped for the fabric type, marked with two numbers such as 80/12.
Used for: Sewing every fabric on a machine. The wrong type causes skipped stitches, snagged threads or holes.
When you need it: Before your first machine seam, since a new needle is cheap and helps.
How to choose: Universal 80/12 suits most medium woven fabrics. Use 70/10 for thin cloth, 90/14 for medium to heavy, jeans 100/16 for denim, and ballpoint or stretch 75/11 for knits. Topstitch needles have a larger eye.
Alternatives: Microtex (sharp) needles suit fine microfibre and silk.
Safety and care: Replace a needle after roughly 8 hours of sewing or when it hits a pin. Unplug the machine before changing it.
Used in: Changing the Needle, Simple Seams on Knit Fabric, Repair a Popped Seam on Stretch Fabric

Needle threader

What it is: A tiny wire loop on a handle that pulls thread through a needle eye.
Used for: Threading fine needles or when your eyesight makes it hard.
When you need it: Any time threading is frustrating. Optional but inexpensive.
How to choose: A diamond-shaped wire threader works for most needles. Fine threaders suit size 10 and finer, and larger ones suit tapestry needles.
Alternatives: Moisten the thread end and cut it at an angle; a piece of paper folded over the thread can help.
Safety and care: The wire loop breaks easily, so buy a pack of several.
Used in: How to Thread a Needle, Sew a Missing Button Back On

Thimble

What it is: A small cap worn on the finger to push a needle through fabric.
Used for: Pushing needles through denim, canvas, seams and several layers.
When you need it: When hand sewing thick fabric or doing a lot of stitching.
How to choose: It should fit snug on the middle finger of the sewing hand. Metal thimbles are common, leather ones are softer, and silicone ones are cheap and grippy.
Alternatives: A strip of adhesive bandage or a leather finger guard works in a pinch.
Safety and care: A thimble that is too tight restricts blood flow; one that is loose falls off.
Used in: Patch Jeans With an Outside Patch, Reattach or Replace a Belt Loop

Threads and embroidery floss

All-purpose polyester thread

What it is: Strong, slightly stretchy thread wound on a spool, usually 40 weight, with a 250 yd (230 m) spool.
Used for: Most hand and machine sewing, seam repairs and hems.
When you need it: From day one. It is the one thread to buy first.
How to choose: Choose one shade darker than your fabric, as a single strand sews in lighter than it looks on the spool. Buy a recognised brand, since cheap thread sheds lint and breaks.
Alternatives: Cotton-wrapped polyester is smoother on a machine. Nylon thread is stronger but stiffer.
Safety and care: Do not use old thread, which can be brittle and cause breakage.
Used in: Running Stitch, Threading the Upper Thread, Fix a Split Seam

Cotton thread

What it is: Natural-fibre thread, commonly 50 weight and 2-ply.
Used for: Sewing and mending natural fabrics such as cotton and linen, and for basting.
When you need it: When you want a thread with no stretch for quilting or natural-fibre garments, or for basting.
How to choose: Look for mercerised cotton, 50 weight, which is smooth and strong. Heavier 40 or 30 weight gives a more visible stitch.
Alternatives: Polyester is stronger and cheaper for repairs.
Safety and care: Cotton thread breaks under stretch, so avoid it on knit seams.
Used in: Basting (Tacking), Sewing a Straight Line

Heavy-duty and topstitch thread

What it is: A thicker thread, often 30 weight, in strong polyester or cotton-wrapped polyester.
Used for: Topstitching on jeans, sewing on coat buttons, patching denim and bar tacks.
When you need it: When you mend denim, canvas or bags, or any seam under heavy strain.
How to choose: Use a topstitch needle 90/14 or 100/16 for machine use, since the thread needs a bigger eye. A 30 weight thread is good for denim repairs.
Alternatives: Doubled all-purpose polyester works by hand.
Safety and care: Loosen the upper tension a little if the stitches pucker.
Used in: Topstitching, Patch Jeans With an Outside Patch, Reattach or Replace a Belt Loop

Six-strand embroidery floss

What it is: Loosely twisted cotton thread with six strands that you can separate, sold in 8 m (8.7 yd) skeins.
Used for: Embroidery, cross-stitch and visible decorative mending.
When you need it: For any embroidery or cross-stitch project.
How to choose: Cotton floss from a known brand is colourfast. Cut 18 in (45 cm) lengths and separate strands one at a time, then reunite them.
Alternatives: Perle cotton and stranded silk are alternatives.
Safety and care: Test dark colours for bleeding in a damp scrap before using them on a light garment.
Used in: Running Stitch, The Basic Full Cross-Stitch, Satin Stitch

Pearl (perle) cotton

What it is: A twisted, shiny cotton thread that cannot be separated, sold in sizes 3, 5, 8 and 12.
Used for: Bold hand stitches, visible mending, sashiko-style running stitch and blanket stitch.
When you need it: When you want a chunky, raised stitch.
How to choose: Size 5 is a good all-round weight; size 8 is finer. A lower number means thicker thread. Use a size 3 to 5 crewel needle, or a chenille needle size 22.
Alternatives: Three or six strands of floss, or sashiko thread.
Safety and care: It frays if the thread is too long, so use 18 in (45 cm) lengths.
Used in: Blanket Stitch, Running Stitch

Fabrics

Quilting cotton

What it is: A plain-weave 100% cotton fabric, 44 to 45 in (112 to 114 cm) wide, in a wide range of prints.
Used for: Practice, patches, pocket bags and visible mends.
When you need it: As the first fabric to buy for practice and patches.
How to choose: Buy fat quarters (about 18 x 22 in / 46 x 56 cm) for small jobs. Wash before use to remove sizing and shrinkage.
Alternatives: Cotton poplin or shirting fabric.
Safety and care: Prints can bleed, so wash bright colours separately at first.
Used in: Running Stitch, Repair a Torn Pocket Bag

Linen

What it is: A plain-weave fabric from flax, strong but wrinkle-prone.
Used for: Clothing, table linen and embroidery.
When you need it: When you repair linen garments or want to embroider on natural fabric.
How to choose: Light linen is about 3 to 5 oz/yd2; heavy linen 6 to 8 oz/yd2. Match the weight to the garment you are mending.
Alternatives: Linen-cotton blends fray less.
Safety and care: Linen frays quickly. Finish edges at once and press while damp, at the heat the care label allows.
Used in: Mend a Small Tear in Woven Fabric, How to Use an Embroidery Hoop

Aida cloth

What it is: A stiff cotton cloth woven in a clear grid of squares, with holes between them.
Used for: Cross-stitch, since each stitch fills one square.
When you need it: When you start cross-stitch.
How to choose: 14-count (14 squares per inch) is the standard beginner size; 11-count is larger and easier to see; 18-count gives finer work.
Alternatives: Evenweave for finer stitching.
Safety and care: Edges fray, so tape or zigzag them before stitching.
Used in: The Basic Full Cross-Stitch, How to Use an Embroidery Hoop

Evenweave fabric

What it is: A plain-weave cloth with the same number of threads each way, with no fixed squares.
Used for: Cross-stitch where you stitch over two threads, and counted thread work.
When you need it: When you outgrow Aida and want finer stitches.
How to choose: Common counts are 25, 28 and 32 per inch. Stitch over two threads, so a 28-count cloth gives 14 stitches per inch.
Alternatives: Aida is easier for beginners.
Safety and care: It is harder to see the holes in poor light.
Used in: The Basic Full Cross-Stitch

Denim

What it is: A tough cotton twill, usually indigo-dyed, in weights of about 6 to 14 oz/yd2.
Used for: Patches and backing for jeans, and bags.
When you need it: When you patch jeans.
How to choose: Match the weight of the patch to the garment. Lightweight denim suits shirts, and heavier denim suits jeans. Use old jeans as a source of free patches.
Alternatives: Cotton twill or canvas.
Safety and care: Cutting heavy denim dulls scissors; use sharp ones and a thimble for sewing.
Used in: Patch Jeans With an Outside Patch, Mend a Hole in Denim From the Inside, Shorten Jeans and Keep the Original Hem

Knit jersey

What it is: A soft, stretchy knit fabric made of looped yarn, often with 3 to 5% elastane.
Used for: T-shirts, leggings, and patches or practice for stretch seams.
When you need it: When you repair T-shirts or knits.
How to choose: Choose cotton jersey with some stretch. Pre-wash to avoid shrinkage. Use a ballpoint needle 70/10 or 80/12.
Alternatives: Old T-shirts are a free source.
Safety and care: Edges curl, so pin generously. Do not stretch the fabric while sewing.
Used in: Simple Seams on Knit Fabric, Repair a Popped Seam on Stretch Fabric

Scrap fabric

What it is: Offcuts, old shirts and worn sheets saved for practice and patches.
Used for: Testing stitch settings, practising stitches and backing a repair.
When you need it: Before every new technique. Test on a scrap before you sew the real garment.
How to choose: Keep scraps of woven cotton, denim and a knit. Choose scraps of the same fibre as the garment.
Alternatives: Fat quarters from a craft shop.
Safety and care: Wash scraps before use so they match the shrinkage of the garment.
Used in: Sewing a Straight Line, Running Stitch, Mend a Small Tear in Woven Fabric

Hoops and frames

Embroidery hoop

What it is: Two rings that clamp fabric tight, usually wood or plastic with a screw at the top.
Used for: Holding fabric taut for embroidery, cross-stitch and darning.
When you need it: When you start embroidery, or darn a hole in a thin knit.
How to choose: A 5 to 6 in (13 to 15 cm) hoop is the usual size; a 4 in (10 cm) hoop suits small areas. Look for a hoop with a metal screw and smooth inner ring.
Alternatives: Mend small areas without a hoop by holding the fabric, though stitches may pucker.
Safety and care: Remove the hoop when you stop, as leaving it on can leave marks.
Used in: How to Use an Embroidery Hoop, The Basic Full Cross-Stitch

Q-snap or scroll frame

What it is: A rectangular frame made of plastic tubes with clamps, or two rollers with side bars that hold a length of fabric.
Used for: Holding large pieces for cross-stitch, without a hoop mark.
When you need it: For larger cross-stitch or embroidery pieces. It is optional for small projects.
How to choose: A 17 x 11 in (43 x 28 cm) Q-snap frame suits many projects. Scroll frames suit long, narrow designs.
Alternatives: A hoop of 8 in (20 cm) or more.
Safety and care: Clamps can mark delicate fabric, so pad them with a spare scrap.
Used in: The Basic Full Cross-Stitch, How to Use an Embroidery Hoop

Sewing machines

Basic mechanical sewing machine

What it is: A sewing machine with dials for stitch type and length, running on a foot pedal.
Used for: Straight seams, zigzag, hems, buttonholes and machine repairs.
When you need it: When you do repairs longer than a few inches or need strong seams.
How to choose: A basic mechanical model with straight stitch, zigzag, reverse, adjustable stitch length and a built-in buttonhole is enough. Used older models can last decades.
Alternatives: A hand-crank machine or a portable mini machine for light fabrics.
Safety and care: Read the manual for threading, oiling and cleaning. Unplug before changing a needle or cleaning.
Used in: The Parts of a Sewing Machine, Setting Up Your Machine Safely, Fixing Common Stitching Problems

Bobbins

What it is: Small spools that hold the lower thread in the machine.
Used for: Providing the thread that forms the stitch from underneath.
When you need it: Before your first seam. You need several, pre-wound with the thread you use most.
How to choose: Bobbins come in several classes (such as 15, L and 66). Use only the type your manual specifies. A wrong size causes tension problems.
Alternatives: Pre-wound bobbins are convenient but cost more.
Safety and care: Do not use a bent or damaged bobbin. Replace plastic bobbins that crack.
Used in: Winding a Bobbin, Putting the Bobbin into the Machine

Presser feet

What it is: The attachments at the needle that hold the fabric against the feed dogs.
Used for: The all-purpose foot is used for most seams; a zipper foot, buttonhole foot and walking foot do special jobs.
When you need it: Start with the foot that comes with the machine. Add others as the job demands.
How to choose: Make sure any extra foot fits your machine's shank type (low, high or slant). Check the manual or search for your model.
Alternatives: A blind hem foot helps with hems.
Safety and care: Always lift the presser foot when threading and lower it before sewing.
Used in: The Parts of a Sewing Machine, Basic Double-Fold Garment Hem, Topstitching

Cutting tools

Fabric scissors (dressmaker's shears)

What it is: Long, sharp scissors with a bent handle that lets the blade lie flat on the table.
Used for: Cutting fabric cleanly.
When you need it: From the start, since blunt scissors chew fabric.
How to choose: An 8 in (20 cm) pair is a good size. A mid-priced pair holds an edge for years. Left-handed pairs exist.
Alternatives: Sharp household scissors work for scraps, but not for good cutting.
Safety and care: Never cut paper or card with them, as it dulls the blades.
Used in: Preparation Checklist Before Cutting, Patch Jeans With an Outside Patch

Embroidery scissors

What it is: Small scissors, about 3.5 to 4.5 in (9 to 11 cm) long, with fine sharp points.
Used for: Snipping thread tails and trimming close to the fabric.
When you need it: When you do fine hand work.
How to choose: Look for sharp, pointed blades that meet at the tip. Many come with a sheath for safety.
Alternatives: Thread snips (spring-loaded) are quick to use.
Safety and care: Keep the sheath on when not in use. Tie them to a ribbon so they do not get lost.
Used in: Sew a Missing Button Back On, How to Use an Embroidery Hoop

Seam ripper

What it is: A small tool with a hook and a sharp inner curve for cutting stitches.
Used for: Unpicking seams and removing mistakes.
When you need it: From the first repair, since you will need to unpick something.
How to choose: Buy one with a comfortable handle and a sharp blade. Replace it when it drags.
Alternatives: Small, sharp scissors, with care.
Safety and care: Cut stitches only, and keep the fabric flat to avoid slicing it. Place the cap over the tip after use.
Used in: Fix a Split Seam, Fix a Loose or Fallen Hem

Pinking shears

What it is: Scissors with zigzag blades that cut a saw-tooth edge.
Used for: Finishing raw edges of woven fabric so they fray less.
When you need it: Optional. Useful for seams inside garments that are not under much strain.
How to choose: Choose a pair 7 to 9 in (18 to 23 cm) long overall. They cost more than basic shears.
Alternatives: Zigzag the raw edge on the machine.
Safety and care: Pinking slows fraying but does not stop it on loose weaves.
Used in: Finishing Seam Allowances

Rotary cutter and cutting mat

What it is: A round blade on a handle, used with a self-healing mat.
Used for: Cutting straight lines and large patches quickly.
When you need it: Optional. Useful if you cut many patches or strips.
How to choose: A 45 mm blade is the standard size. A mat about 18 x 24 in (45 x 60 cm) is enough. Use with a clear ruler.
Alternatives: Fabric scissors.
Safety and care: The blade is extremely sharp. Retract it after every cut and keep it away from children.
Used in: Reattach or Replace a Belt Loop

Measuring tools

Measuring tape

What it is: A flexible tape marked in inches and centimetres, usually 60 in (150 cm) long.
Used for: Measuring hems, curved lines and body measurements.
When you need it: From the start.
How to choose: Buy a double-sided fibreglass or vinyl tape that does not stretch. Check that both sides read from zero at the same end.
Alternatives: A piece of string marked against a ruler.
Safety and care: Cloth tapes stretch with use, so replace them if they look worn.
Used in: Fit and Measurement Guide, Fix a Loose or Fallen Hem

Seam gauge

What it is: A 6 in (15 cm) metal or plastic ruler with a sliding marker.
Used for: Measuring hem depths and seam allowances quickly.
When you need it: Whenever you fold a hem or check a seam allowance.
How to choose: Choose one with clear markings in both inches and millimetres.
Alternatives: A short ruler and a pencil mark.
Safety and care: Metal gauges last longest. Check that the slider grips firmly so the measurement does not shift.
Used in: Fix a Loose or Fallen Hem, Sewing a Consistent Seam Allowance

Clear ruler

What it is: A see-through acrylic ruler, often 2 x 18 in or 6 x 24 in (5 x 45 cm or 15 x 60 cm), with a grid.
Used for: Drawing straight cutting lines and measuring patches.
When you need it: When you cut patches or strips.
How to choose: A 6 x 24 in ruler is the most flexible size. Lines should be printed on the underside to avoid parallax errors.
Alternatives: A metal ruler or a straight board.
Safety and care: Do not iron near a plastic ruler.
Used in: Reattach or Replace a Belt Loop

Marking tools

Tailor's chalk

What it is: A flat piece of clay or wax chalk, or a chalk pencil, used to mark fabric.
Used for: Marking hems, patch edges and seam lines.
When you need it: When you need a temporary line.
How to choose: Choose a colour that shows on your fabric. Wax chalk is harder to brush off, so pick clay chalk for most work.
Alternatives: A thin sliver of dry soap.
Safety and care: Test on a hidden area first; wax chalk can leave a mark.
Used in: Reinforce a Worn Pocket Corner, Fit and Measurement Guide

Water-soluble marking pen

What it is: A pen with ink that washes out with water.
Used for: Marking designs and sewing lines on light fabric.
When you need it: For embroidery and precise lines.
How to choose: Pick a fine tip in blue or purple. Test on a scrap of the same fabric.
Alternatives: Chalk or a heat-erasable pen.
Safety and care: Do not iron over the marks, because heat can set them permanently. Remove with cold water, dabbing rather than rubbing.
Used in: Running Stitch

Heat-erasable pen

What it is: A pen with ink that vanishes when heated by an iron.
Used for: Marking lines that you can remove with a hot iron.
When you need it: Optional, for crisp marking on cotton and linen.
How to choose: Look for a fine tip, and test on a scrap before use.
Alternatives: Chalk or a water-soluble pen.
Safety and care: The marks can reappear in the cold and can leave a faint ghost line on dark fabric. Do not use on a garment that you cannot iron.
Used in: Backstitch

Transfer paper

What it is: Dressmaker's carbon paper, coated on one side with a washable pigment.
Used for: Copying an embroidery pattern onto fabric.
When you need it: When you transfer a design.
How to choose: Choose a colour that contrasts with the fabric. Use a hard pencil or tracing wheel to press.
Alternatives: Trace through a light box or window.
Safety and care: Check that the pigment washes out; test on a scrap.
Used in: How to Use an Embroidery Hoop

Notions and fasteners

Pins

What it is: Straight pins with glass or plastic heads, about 1 1/16 in (27 mm) long.
Used for: Holding fabric layers together while you sew.
When you need it: For every project.
How to choose: Fine pins (0.5 mm) suit thin fabrics and thicker ones suit denim. Glass heads can take heat. Use ballpoint pins for knits.
Alternatives: Sewing clips.
Safety and care: Do not sew over pins by machine, which can break the needle. Count pins before and after a project.
Used in: Sewing a Straight Line, Fix a Split Seam

Sewing clips

What it is: Small plastic or metal clips that hold layers together.
Used for: Holding thick layers and fabrics that pins would mark.
When you need it: When pinning denim, knits, vinyl and leather.
How to choose: A pack of 20 to 50 clips is plenty. They hold up to around 1/4 in (6 mm) of thickness.
Alternatives: Paper clips or bulldog clips for very thick items.
Safety and care: Remove clips before they reach the needle.
Used in: Patch Jeans With an Outside Patch, Repair a Popped Seam on Stretch Fabric

Buttons

What it is: Round fasteners with either two or four holes (sew-through) or a loop on the back (shank).
Used for: Closing garments and replacing lost buttons.
When you need it: When one falls off.
How to choose: Measure the old button's diameter. Shirt buttons are about 3/8 to 1/2 in (10 to 12 mm); coat buttons 1 in (25 mm) or more. Buy a spare button card or take one with you.
Alternatives: Use a full set on a garment if you cannot match one.
Safety and care: Keep spare buttons in a labelled bag.
Used in: Sewing on a Button, Sew a Missing Button Back On

Snaps, hooks and eyes

What it is: Sew-on fasteners. Snaps have two halves that press together, and hooks and eyes fasten waistbands and necklines.
Used for: Replacing a broken closure.
When you need it: When a snap, hook or eye comes off or breaks.
How to choose: Sew-on snaps range from about 1/4 to 5/8 in (6 to 16 mm). Hooks and eyes come in sizes 0 to 3; use a heavier hook and bar for waistbands.
Alternatives: A button and loop.
Safety and care: Sew through every hole so the fastener does not twist.
Used in: Whipstitch, Blanket Stitch

Elastic

What it is: A stretchy band for waistbands and cuffs, in braided, woven and knitted types.
Used for: Replacing worn waistbands, cuffs and gathers.
When you need it: When elastic in a garment loses its stretch.
How to choose: Use 3/8 in (10 mm) for cuffs, 1/2 to 1 in (12 to 25 mm) for waistbands. Woven elastic keeps its width; braided elastic narrows when stretched.
Alternatives: Elastic cord for small gathers.
Safety and care: Do not iron hot, which can melt or weaken the rubber.
Used in: Elastic Casing Waistband

Safety pins and bodkin

What it is: Safety pins are closed pins with a clasp. A bodkin is a thick blunt needle or tweezer-like tool that threads elastic or cord through a casing.
Used for: Threading elastic, cord and drawstrings, and temporary fixes.
When you need it: When you replace elastic or a drawstring.
How to choose: A safety pin about 1 to 1 1/2 in (25 to 38 mm) long works for most casings. A bodkin of 3 in (7.5 cm) is easier with wide elastic.
Alternatives: A hairpin or a loop turner.
Safety and care: Close pins after use, as open ones can injure.
Used in: Elastic Casing Waistband

Pressing equipment

Iron

What it is: A steam iron with adjustable heat.
Used for: Pressing seams, folds, hems and fusing interfacing.
When you need it: Press at each stage of a repair.
How to choose: A basic steam iron with fabric settings is fine. Check the care label for temperature.
Alternatives: A travel iron for small jobs.
Safety and care: Test on a scrap, and never leave a hot iron unattended. Use a press cloth on synthetics.
Used in: Pressing Seams and Folds Safely, Mend a Small Tear in Woven Fabric

Ironing board

What it is: A padded, adjustable board with a heat-resistant cover.
Used for: A firm surface for pressing.
When you need it: Whenever you iron.
How to choose: A sturdy board with a cotton cover is best. A tabletop board suits small projects.
Alternatives: A folded towel on a table.
Safety and care: Place on a stable surface and keep the cord out of the way.
Used in: Pressing Seams and Folds Safely

Press cloth

What it is: A thin cotton cloth placed between the iron and the fabric.
Used for: Protecting fabric from shine and scorching.
When you need it: When pressing synthetics, dark fabrics or fusibles.
How to choose: Cotton muslin or an old white handkerchief works. Choose a clean, plain one.
Alternatives: A thin cotton tea towel.
Safety and care: Dampen it for extra steam on wool.
Used in: Pressing Seams and Folds Safely, Mend a Small Tear in Woven Fabric

Stabilizers and interfacing

Tear-away stabilizer

What it is: A paper-like sheet that supports fabric and tears away after stitching.
Used for: Stabilizing thin fabric for machine embroidery or decorative mends.
When you need it: Optional. Use it under thin woven fabric. On knits, a cut-away or iron-on stabilizer supports better, because tearing can distort the stitches.
How to choose: Light to medium weight is typical. Pin or fuse it behind the work.
Alternatives: Typing paper or a coffee filter.
Safety and care: Remove carefully so you do not distort stitches.
Used in: Simple Seams on Knit Fabric, How to Use an Embroidery Hoop

Water-soluble stabilizer

What it is: A film or fabric-like sheet that dissolves in water.
Used for: Holding fine stitching, or marking a pattern, then dissolving.
When you need it: Optional. Used on sheer fabric and for tracing designs.
How to choose: Film types suit towels and lace. Sticky types hold designs.
Alternatives: Tear-away stabilizer.
Safety and care: Rinse well. Do not use on a garment that cannot be washed.
Used in: How to Use an Embroidery Hoop

Fusible interfacing

What it is: A thin fabric with a heat-activated adhesive on one side.
Used for: Backing tears, holes and weak areas.
When you need it: For repairs of tears and thin spots.
How to choose: Lightweight woven or non-woven for woven fabric, knit (tricot) for stretch fabric. Buy white for light cloth and black for dark cloth.
Alternatives: Fusible web with a scrap of fabric.
Safety and care: Check the garment's care label for the heat it can take and test on a scrap, since it can stiffen thin cloth. Press with a cloth and do not slide the iron.
Used in: Mend a Small Tear in Woven Fabric, Close a Small Hole in Woven or Fine Knit Fabric, Reinforce Areas Prone to Wear

Mending supplies

Iron-on patches

What it is: Fabric patches with heat-activated glue on the back.
Used for: Covering holes and worn areas.
When you need it: For a quick repair on a hidden spot.
How to choose: Pick one in a fabric close to the garment's weight, and a size that overlaps the hole by 1 in (25 mm).
Alternatives: A fabric patch with fusible web.
Safety and care: The glue can release in the wash, so stitch around the edges. Not suited to stretch or heat-sensitive fabric. Check the care label and test the iron on a hidden area first.
Used in: Patch Jeans With an Outside Patch, Patching by Hand

Fusible web and hem tape

What it is: A thin web of adhesive, as a tape or a sheet, that melts between layers.
Used for: Quick hems, bonding patches and holding edges while you stitch.
When you need it: For emergency hems and for holding patches in place.
How to choose: Hem tape in 1/2 in (12 mm) width suits trousers. Paper-backed web suits patches.
Alternatives: Fabric glue or a stitched hem.
Safety and care: Fusible hems are not as durable as stitched hems. Do not use on stretch or heavy fabric. Check the care label and test the iron on a hidden area first.
Used in: Fix a Loose or Fallen Hem, Patch Jeans With an Outside Patch

Darning mushroom or egg

What it is: A wooden mushroom or egg shape that you slide under a hole.
Used for: Supporting knitted fabric while you darn.
When you need it: When you darn socks and sweaters. Optional but helpful.
How to choose: A mushroom with a handle suits socks; an egg suits sweaters.
Alternatives: A smooth, sturdy jar or a tennis ball held in place with a rubber band.
Safety and care: Check that any improvised support is clean and smooth, and avoid thin glass, such as a light bulb, that can break.
Used in: Darn a Hole in a Sweater or Sock, Darning

Fray stopper (seam sealant)

What it is: A liquid that dries clear and seals cut thread ends.
Used for: Stopping fraying at cut ends, knots and ribbons.
When you need it: Optional. Use a drop on a knot or a fraying edge.
How to choose: Choose a washable type and apply with the nozzle in tiny amounts.
Alternatives: A clear nail varnish, tested on a scrap.
Safety and care: It can darken or stiffen fabric and stain, so test first. Use in a ventilated area.
Used in: Mend a Small Tear in Woven Fabric, Sew a Missing Button Back On

Storage and organization

Sewing box

What it is: A box with compartments for your tools.
Used for: Keeping tools together and tidy.
When you need it: As soon as you own more than a few items.
How to choose: A small tackle box, a lunch box with a lid, or a basket works. Pick one with a latch.
Alternatives: A biscuit tin.
Safety and care: Keep scissors and needles in a safe place, away from children and pets.
Used in: How to Thread a Needle

Floss bobbins

What it is: Small cards or plastic tabs to wind floss on.
Used for: Keeping skeins tidy, untangled and labelled.
When you need it: When you hold more than a couple of floss colours.
How to choose: Cardboard bobbins are cheap. Write the colour number on each.
Alternatives: Wind floss on a clothes peg or a folded card.
Safety and care: Store in a box with a lid, away from sun, which fades floss.
Used in: Running Stitch, The Basic Full Cross-Stitch

Needle minder and needle book

What it is: A needle minder is a small magnet that holds a needle on your work. A needle book is a folded felt book that holds needles.
Used for: Storing needles safely and finding them while you work.
When you need it: Optional but practical from your first needle pack.
How to choose: A strong magnet minder will hold a size 5 or 7 needle. Choose a felt book with several pages.
Alternatives: A piece of felt or a cork.
Safety and care: Keep magnets away from pacemakers and machine screens.
Used in: How to Thread a Needle

Pincushion

What it is: A small stuffed cushion for holding pins and needles.
Used for: Keeping pins within reach.
When you need it: When you use pins every day.
How to choose: A wrist cushion is handy at the machine. A magnetic dish catches dropped pins.
Alternatives: A small jar of sand or a cushion stuffed with wool.
Safety and care: Wool stuffing oils needles and helps prevent rust.
Used in: Sewing a Straight Line