Pressing Seams and Folds Safely
Pressing sets stitches and makes seams lie flat. This lesson explains the difference between pressing and ironing, and how to avoid burning or marking fabric.
What you will learn
- Pressing a seam
- Reading care labels
- Using a press cloth
Materials and tools
Press, do not iron
Ironing slides the iron across the fabric to remove wrinkles. Pressing lifts the iron, places it down, holds it for a few seconds and lifts it again. Pressing flattens a seam or fold without stretching it.
Always press when sewing. Sliding the iron can stretch the fabric, especially on a curve, a bias edge or a knit.
Find the right heat
Check the care label. A dot or dots on the iron symbol show the maximum heat. One dot is low (about 230 F, 110 C). Two dots are medium (about 300 F, 150 C). Three dots are high (about 390 F, 200 C). An iron with a cross through it means do not iron.
| Fabric | Heat setting | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Cotton and linen | High, with steam | Press from the wrong side. Linen can be damp. |
| Wool | Medium, with steam | Use a press cloth to avoid shine. |
| Silk | Low, no steam unless tested | Steam can leave water marks. Test first. |
| Polyester and blends | Low to medium | High heat can melt or shine the fabric. |
| Nylon, acetate, rayon blends | Low | Press on the wrong side with a cloth. |
| Velvet and corduroy | Low, over a needle board or towel | Do not press flat on the front, or the pile flattens. |
Always test on a scrap or a hidden area first, such as inside a hem. Wait for the fabric to cool before judging.
How to press a seam
First press the seam flat as it was sewn, to set the stitches into the fabric. Then open the seam by running the tip of the iron between the two layers and pressing it flat, or press both seam allowances to one side if you prefer.
Press on the wrong side of the fabric where possible. If you must press on the right side, put a press cloth between the iron and the fabric. This protects delicate fabric and stops shine.
How to press a fold
Fold the fabric on the line, lay it flat and press along the fold, moving the iron in short steps. Do not drag it.
For a hem, press the fold before you sew it. A crisp fold is much easier to stitch than a floppy one.
Tips for a neat result
- Press as you go. Pressing each seam before the next saves problems later.
- A tailor's ham or rolled towel helps when pressing curves.
- Let pressed fabric cool and dry before moving it.
Common mistakes and fixes
A shiny patch appears on the fabric.
The iron was too hot or no cloth was used. Press next time with a cloth and lower heat. Shine on wool can sometimes be reduced with steam and a soft brush.
Fabric stretches or ripples.
The iron was dragged across the fabric. Lift and press instead.
A brown scorch mark appears.
The setting was too high. Test the heat on a scrap first, and check the care label.
- The iron is hot enough to burn skin. Set it on its heel when you are not using it, and switch it off when you leave the room.
- Never press over pins with a plastic head. The heads melt.
- Unplug the iron when you have finished.
Check your result
- Seams and folds lie flat with no ripples.
- There is no shine, scorch or water mark on the fabric.