How to Sew Without Puckering

What you will learn

• Controlling thread tension
• Smoothing a seam as you sew

Materials and tools

• Hand-sewing needle (sharps, size 8)
• All-purpose polyester thread
• Two scraps of woven cotton, 6 in (15 cm) square
• Pins

1. Cut thread no longer than 18 in (45 cm). Long thread twists, and twisted thread pulls and shortens as it goes in. Let the needle dangle to untwist the thread now and then.
2. Lay the fabric flat on a table or your lap. Pin the layers together along the seam line, with pins at right angles to the seam, every 2 in (5 cm).
3. Take each stitch the same length, about 1/8 in (3 mm) for a seam. Uneven stitches pull the fabric unevenly.

4. Pull the thread through until it lies flat on the surface, then stop. The stitch should rest on the fabric. If the fabric starts to bunch around the thread, you have pulled too tight.
5. After every four or five stitches, run your thumb along the seam, pushing the fabric flat. Check that there is no bunching ahead of the needle. Smooth the fabric away from the stitching, not towards it.
6. If the fabric puckers as you go, snip the last few stitches with a seam ripper or the tip of your scissors and sew them again with the thread looser. Leave a little slack and the fabric relaxes.
7. When the seam is finished, press it with a warm iron on the wrong side to set the stitches and flatten the seam. Check the care label for the right heat.

Tips for a neat result

• Use a finer thread for lightweight fabric, such as 60-weight polyester.
• Use a fine needle (size 9 or 10) on thin fabric. A thick needle drags threads.
• On stretchy fabric, leave a little slack in the thread so the seam can stretch.

Common mistakes and fixes

Check your result

• The fabric lies flat on both sides of the seam.
• The thread sits on the surface without cutting into the fabric.