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Securing the Start and End of a Seam

A seam that is not locked at each end will pull out. Learn three ways to lock thread: a knot, backstitches in place and burying the tail.

Beginner10 minHand

What you will learn

At the start, tie a knot at the end of the thread. Bring the needle up from the wrong side at the seam line, so the knot sits on the inside of the garment, hidden in the seam allowance.
For a more secure start without a knot, take a tiny stitch in the seam allowance, 1/4 in (6 mm) from the start. Pull the thread through, leaving a 2 in (5 cm) tail. Take a second stitch in the same place and pull flat. This locks the thread.
Two tiny stitches in the same spot lock the thread. The next stitch carries on along the seam.
At the end of a seam, take two small stitches in the same place, right beside the last stitch. Bring the needle back up at the first hole each time so the stitches stack on top of each other.
Finish with a knot. Take a small stitch, pull until a loop remains, pass the needle through the loop and pull tight against the fabric. Repeat once.
Bury the tail. Slide the needle into the seam allowance near the knot and bring it out about 1/2 in (12 mm) away, travelling between the layers.
Pull the thread gently so the knot pops inside the layers. Hold the thread slightly taut and snip it at the fabric surface. The cut end retreats out of sight.

Backstitches in place suit fabrics where a knot would show or bulk, such as fine silk.
Leave a tail of at least 2 in (5 cm) at the start if you plan to tie it later.
Tug the seam gently after finishing to test it.

The seam unravels when you pull on it.

The thread was not locked at the ends. Re-sew a few stitches with knots or stacked stitches.

A bump shows through the fabric.

The knot was made on the right side or too big. Tie it in the seam allowance or use stacked stitches instead.

The tail keeps popping out.

It was not cut under tension. Pull gently on the thread before you snip.