Sew on a Loose or Missing Button

What you will learn

• Anchoring thread
• Making a thread shank
• Matching a button

Materials and tools

• The garment and the button (or a matching spare, often sewn inside the hem or on the care label)
• Hand-sewing needle (sharps, size 5 or 6)
• Heavy-duty or all-purpose polyester thread, 36 in (90 cm), doubled
• Toothpick, matchstick or pin as a spacer
• Chalk
• Small scissors or seam ripper
• Thimble (optional)

Before you start

• Look at the buttonhole on the opposite side. Check the button size, number of holes and the thickness of the fabric layers.
• If the old button is loose, cut away the old thread with the seam ripper and remove it.

1. Find a matching button. Check that it has the same size and number of holes, and that the buttonhole can fit it. If a spare is not available, choose one close to the same size and thickness.
2. Mark the spot on the garment with chalk, in the middle of where the old button sat. The old holes in the fabric will guide you.
3. Thread the needle with 36 in (90 cm) of thread. Double it and knot the ends together.
4. Bring the needle up from the back at the mark. Take two small stitches in the same spot to anchor the thread, then bring the needle up again.
5. Pass the needle up through one hole of the button, and slide the button down to the fabric. Place the spacer on top of the button, between the holes.
6. Sew down through the opposite hole and into the fabric, then up through the first hole again. Repeat 4 to 6 times for a two-hole button.

7. For a four-hole button, sew an X or two parallel bars. Do six to eight passes with the same pattern.

8. Pull out the spacer. Lift the button up so the threads stand away from the fabric.
9. Bring the needle out between the button and the fabric and wind the thread tightly round the stalk of stitches 4 to 6 times. This is the thread shank.

10. Push the needle through to the back. Take two small stitches, tie a knot, bury the tail and snip.
11. Tug the button to test it. Fasten the button into its buttonhole to check that the shank allows the placket to lie flat.

Tips for a neat result

• Use doubled thread for strength.
• Sew over a spacer so that the button can move into the buttonhole.
• If a coat has a button on a metal shank, sew through the shank loop with doubled strong thread.

Common mistakes and fixes

Check your result

• The button is firm and does not wobble when tugged.
• The button passes through the buttonhole easily and lies flat when fastened.