The Little Sewing Studio
Essential stitches

Backstitch

A strong stitch where each stitch goes back to meet the last. It looks like a machine seam from the front and is the best hand stitch for seams and repairs.

Beginner20 minHand

What you will learn

  • Keeping stitches even
  • Making a strong seam
  • Joining layers by hand

Materials and tools

Before you start

  • Pin the scraps with right sides together. Draw a seam line 1/2 in (12 mm) from the edge.
  • Knot the end of the thread.

Step by step

  1. 1,423
    Up at 1, down at 2 (back at the start), up at 3 (one stitch ahead of 1), down at 4 (into the same hole as 1).
  2. 1,423,65,87
    A run of backstitch. Every stitch ends in the hole where the previous stitch began.

Tips for a neat result

  • Keep stitches small and even. Short stitches are stronger.
  • Mark the seam line with chalk until you can keep it straight by eye.
  • For extra strength on a repair, sew a second row of backstitch 1/8 in (3 mm) from the first.

Common mistakes and fixes

There are gaps between stitches.

The needle went down short of the previous stitch. Always push it into the end of the previous stitch.

The seam puckers.

The thread was pulled too tight. Pull until the thread lies flat.

Stitches vary in length.

Check where the needle comes up. Aim for the same distance each time.

The fabric slips apart.

Pin the layers more closely or baste them first.

Check your result

  • The front shows a continuous line of stitches that touch end to end.
  • The seam is strong when you tug it, and the fabric lies flat.
Practice exerciseJoin two scraps with a 4 in (10 cm) seam. Press it open, and pull the two fabrics apart gently to test the seam. Repeat with 3/16 in (5 mm) stitches and compare.