Machine-Sewn Visible Hem

What you will learn

• Double-fold hem
• Straight stitching
• Pressing a fold

Materials and tools

• Sewing machine
• Needle to match fabric (80/12 for medium cotton)
• Thread matched to the fabric
• Seam gauge
• Pins or clips
• Iron and board

Before you start

• Mark the hem length on the body, confirm it, and trim to the planned allowance. Follow the manual to thread the machine. Wind a bobbin with the same thread.

1. Allow 1 1/2 in (4 cm) below the finished length. Turn the raw edge up 1/2 in (12 mm) toward the wrong side, then turn it again 1 in (2.5 cm) so the raw edge hides inside the hem.
2. Press each fold with an iron as you go, at the heat on the care label. Use the seam gauge to check the depth every few inches. Pin the hem every 2 in (5 cm), with the pins at right angles to the hem edge so they pull out easily as you sew.

3. Set the machine to a straight stitch, 2.5 mm stitch length. Test on a scrap of the same fabric folded the same way.
4. Place the hem under the presser foot inside facing up, so you can see the inner fold, with the needle lined up about 1/8 in (3 mm) from it. Start at an inside seam, lower the needle and the presser foot, and sew 3 stitches forward, 3 backward, then forward.
5. Sew 1/8 in (3 mm) from the upper folded edge, looking at the edge and not at the needle. Remove each pin as you reach it.
6. At the end, overlap the start by 1 in (2.5 cm), then reverse stitch for 3 stitches. Lift the foot and cut the threads.
7. Press the hem flat from the wrong side, then from the right side with a pressing cloth. Try the garment on.

Tips for a neat result

• Use the free arm on trousers, if your machine has one. Pull the leg over the arm.
• Select a longer stitch for thick fabric, up to 3 mm.

Common mistakes and fixes

Check your result

• The stitching line is straight and even, 1/8 in (3 mm) from the fold.
• The hem is flat with no raw edges showing.

Projects that use this