Starting and Securing a Seam

What you will learn

• Backstitching
• Starting at the right place
• Using alternatives to backstitch

Materials and tools

• Threaded machine
• Two scrap strips of woven cotton, 4 x 8 in (10 x 20 cm)
• Scissors

Before you start

• Place the strips right sides together and align the edges. Set a straight stitch at 2.5 mm.

1. Place the fabric under the foot so the needle will start about 3/8 in (1 cm) from the edge. Lower the needle into the fabric and lower the foot.
2. Sew forward three or four stitches. Hold the reverse lever or button and sew backwards over the same stitches and on to the edge. Release the reverse control.

   1. Spool pin
   2. Thread guides
   3. Tension dial
   4. Take-up lever
   5. Needle clamp and needle
   6. Presser foot
   7. Feed dogs
   8. Needle plate
   9. Bobbin and bobbin case
   10. Presser-foot lifter
   11. Stitch selector
   12. Stitch length control
   13. Reverse lever or button
   14. Handwheel
   15. Foot pedal

3. Sew forward along the seam line at a steady speed, over the locking stitches.
4. Stop about 3/8 in (1 cm) from the other end. Hold the reverse control and sew back 3 or 4 stitches. Release it and sew forward to the edge.
5. Turn the handwheel toward you to raise the needle to its highest point and raise the foot. Pull the fabric back a little and cut the threads, leaving about 2 in (5 cm) if you will tie off, or trim close.
6. Alternative 1: tie off. Pull the bobbin thread to bring the upper thread loop to the underside. Tie the two tails together in a double knot and trim.
7. Alternative 2: shorten the stitch length to about 1 mm for the first and last 1/2 in (12 mm). The tight stitches lock the seam, without sewing over the same line twice.
8. Tug the seam gently to check it holds.

Tips for a neat result

• Backstitch exactly over the first stitches. If the lines wander, the seam looks messy.
• Where another seam will cross the end of this one, the crossing seam locks it. Backstitching there is optional, and leaving it out reduces bulk.

Common mistakes and fixes

Check your result

• The locking stitches lie exactly on top of the seam stitches.
• A gentle tug on the seam does not open the ends.

Projects that use this