Basic Double-Fold Garment Hem
The standard hem for trousers, skirts and sleeves, folded twice so the raw edge is enclosed, then sewn by machine.
What you will learn
- Measuring and pressing a hem
- Folding twice
- Stitching a hem evenly
Materials and tools
Before you start
- Try on the garment and mark the finished length with pins or chalk. Add a hem allowance of 1 1/2 in (4 cm) below the mark and trim extra fabric.
Step by step
Tips for a neat result
- On a trouser leg or sleeve, use the free arm if your machine has one. It is a narrow removable section of the bed. Your manual shows how to open it. If you have no free arm, sew the hem flat in sections.
- If the hem is thick at seams, tap the seams with a hammer or sew slowly and turn the handwheel by hand.
Common mistakes and fixes
The hem is uneven in depth.
The fold was not measured around the whole circuit. Check with the gauge every few inches.
The hem hangs in ripples.
The edge was stretched or a curve was not eased in. Press folds before sewing and ease in the fullness.
The stitching looks obvious on the right side.
A machine hem always shows one line of stitching. Use matching thread and keep the line straight and an even distance from the edge, or choose a hand-sewn blind hem.
Safety and fabric care
- Keep fingers clear of the needle when sewing over thick seams. Turn the handwheel by hand over bulky seams.
Check your result
- The hem has even depth and the stitching is straight.
- The garment hangs level when worn or held up.