Simple Seams on Knit Fabric

What you will learn

• Choosing a ballpoint needle
• Sewing a stretch seam
• Not pulling the fabric

Materials and tools

• Threaded machine
• Scrap of T-shirt jersey, two pieces 6 x 10 in (15 x 25 cm)
• Ballpoint or jersey needle 75/11 or 80/12
• Polyester thread
• Pins or clips

1. Switch off and unplug, then fit a new ballpoint needle. A universal needle can cut knit fibers and cause skipped stitches.
2. Select a stretch stitch if your machine has one. A basic machine may have one that looks like a lightning bolt or a series of small steps. Otherwise, choose zigzag.
3. For the alternative, set zigzag width 1 to 1.5 mm and length 2.5 to 3 mm. Test on a scrap.

4. Place the pieces right sides together and pin or clip across the seam, not along it.
5. Sew slowly with a 3/8 to 5/8 in (1 to 1.5 cm) allowance. Hold the fabric lightly in front and behind the foot. Do not pull or stretch it.
6. Pull the finished seam gently. The stitches should stretch without breaking.
7. Press with a medium-heat iron and a cloth. Do not stretch the knit while pressing.
8. Edges of most knits do not fray, so finishing is optional. If the seam allowance curls, trim it to 1/4 in (6 mm) and zigzag the edges together.

Tips for a neat result

• If the seam waves, sew with tissue paper under the fabric and tear it away after.
• If your machine has a walking foot, check the manual. It feeds both layers together and prevents stretching. Without one, lighten the foot pressure if your machine has a pressure dial.

Common mistakes and fixes

Check your result

• The seam stretches with the fabric and returns without breaking.
• The fabric lies flat and does not ripple.

Projects that use this