Alteration Tools and What They Do
The tools worth owning for altering clothes, with a plain description of what each one is for.
What you will learn
- Choosing tools
- Matching needle and thread to fabric
Measuring and marking
- Measuring tape: a flexible tape, 60 in (150 cm) long, for body and garment measurements. Choose one with both inches and centimetres.
- Full-length mirror: lets you see the whole garment, including hem level and drape. A second hand mirror helps with the back.
- Tailor's chalk or marking pencil: for temporary lines on fabric. Test on a hidden area first, because some marks do not brush out of every fabric. Use chalk on dark fabric and a pencil on light fabric.
- Seam gauge: a small ruler with a sliding marker, used to measure hem depths and seam allowances, usually in 1/8 in (3 mm) steps.
Holding and cutting
- Pins: fine, sharp pins with glass or plastic heads that are easy to see. Heavy fabric such as denim may need thicker pins.
- Clips: small clips hold thick layers or fabrics that pins would mark. They are useful on leather, vinyl and laminated fabric.
- Seam ripper: a small tool with a hook and a sharp point, used to open stitches without cutting the fabric. Slide the point under one stitch at a time and cut it. Keep the point away from the fabric.
- Fabric scissors: sharp shears used only for fabric. Cutting paper dulls them.
Hand sewing
- Hand-sewing needles: sharps, size 7 to 9 for general work, are the best choice for woven fabric. Use a finer needle for light fabric and a stronger one for denim.
- Matching thread: all-purpose polyester thread is a good default. Match the colour to the fabric. When no exact match exists, choose a shade slightly darker, because thread looks lighter once sewn.
- Thimble: optional. It protects your finger when pushing a needle through thick layers.
Pressing
Iron and board: an iron with adjustable heat and a steady ironing board. Pressing is part of nearly every alteration. Match the heat to the care label, and test on a hidden area first.
A pressing cloth, such as a clean piece of thin cotton, protects delicate or shiny fabric from marks.
Machine sewing
Sewing machine: a basic machine with straight stitch and zigzag covers nearly every alteration in this section. Check your machine manual for threading and settings.
Machine needles: fit the needle to the fabric, and replace it often. A needle is dull after about 8 hours of sewing.
- Universal 70/10 to 80/12: light to medium woven fabric.
- Jeans or denim 90/14 to 110/18: dense or thick fabric.
- Ballpoint or stretch 75/11 to 90/14: knits and stretch fabrics.
- Microtex or sharp 60/8 to 70/10: fine, tightly woven fabric.
Switch the machine off and unplug it before changing a needle.
Tips for a neat result
- Buy fewer, better tools. Sharp scissors and a good seam ripper matter more than a large kit.
- Keep a pincushion beside you and count pins before you put the garment on.
Common mistakes and fixes
The needle will not go through the fabric, or it bends.
The needle is too fine or too blunt for the fabric. Use a stronger needle for hand sewing, or a denim needle for the machine.
The chalk mark will not come off.
Some marking tools set on certain fabrics. Always test on a hidden spot before marking.
Check your result
- You can name the tool you would use to measure, mark, hold, cut and press.
- You know which machine needle matches your fabric.