Catch Stitch (Herringbone)

What you will learn

• Working left to right with backward bites
• Hemming with give
• Keeping stitches even

Materials and tools

• Hand-sewing needle (sharps, size 7)
• Thread matched to the fabric, 18 in (45 cm)
• Scrap of thick fabric with a pressed hem
• Pins

Before you start

• Press the hem and finish the raw edge. Pin the hem in place, with the garment's inside facing up.
• Knot the thread.

1. Work from left to right with the needle pointing to the left, if you are right-handed. Bring the needle out through the hem fold, near its top edge.
2. Take the thread diagonally up to the garment fabric. Take a tiny bite of one or two threads from the garment, working from right to left, 1/2 in (12 mm) to the right of the starting point.

3. Pull the thread through until it lies flat but not tight. Keep some slack.
4. Take the thread diagonally down to the hem and take a small bite there, again from right to left. The stitches form a row of X shapes.
5. Continue zigzagging along the hem, keeping the bites tiny and the diagonal threads loose.

6. Finish with a knot. Make sure the top bites do not show on the right side.

Tips for a neat result

• Leave the thread slightly slack, so the hem can stretch with the fabric.
• Catch only a thread or two of the garment so nothing shows.
• Use a catch stitch rather than a blind hem on thick or stretchy fabric.

Common mistakes and fixes

Check your result

• The hem lies flat and moves with the fabric.
• Crossing threads are even, and nothing shows on the front.

Projects that use this