Choosing the Right Hand Stitch
A side-by-side guide to stitches that are often confused: backstitch and running stitch, slip stitch and whipstitch, and a blind hem versus a visible hem.
What you will learn
- Choosing a stitch for the job
- Comparing similar stitches
Backstitch or running stitch
A running stitch goes in and out of the fabric in a straight line. It is fast, but each stitch is held by only one length of thread, so the seam can pull out under strain. A backstitch overlaps each stitch with the next, so the thread forms a solid line. It looks like a machine stitch from the front and is much stronger.
Use running stitch for gathering, basting and light seams that will not be stressed. Use backstitch for seams, repairs and anywhere strength matters.
Slip stitch or whipstitch
A slip stitch is nearly invisible. The thread travels inside a folded edge, and only a tiny stitch shows on the surface. It is for closing openings and attaching a folded edge to flat fabric.
A whipstitch wraps over the edge of the fabric in slanted stitches. It is visible but fast and strong. It is for joining two flat edges, holding a patch and stopping raw edges from fraying.
Choose slip stitch when the finish matters and the stitch must not show. Choose whipstitch when you need a fast, strong join and a visible stitch is acceptable.
Blind hem or visible hem
A blind hem uses tiny stitches that catch only a thread or two of the outer fabric. It is almost invisible on the right side, and suits trousers, skirts and dress fabrics.
A visible hem, such as a running stitch or a catch stitch worked through both layers, is stronger and simpler. It suits jeans, work clothes and any hem that will be pulled hard. A catch stitch is hidden on a thick fabric but not on thin fabric.
Summary table
| Stitch | Looks like | Strength | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Running stitch | Dashed line on both sides | Low | Basting, gathering, light seams |
| Backstitch | Solid line on top, overlapping on back | High | Seams and repairs |
| Slip stitch | Almost invisible | Medium | Closing openings, attaching a folded edge |
| Whipstitch | Slanted stitches over an edge | Medium to high | Patches, joining edges, stopping fraying |
| Blind hem stitch | Tiny dots on the right side | Medium | Hems on trousers and skirts |
| Catch stitch | Criss-cross on the inside | Medium | Hems on thick or stretchy fabric |
Plain advice
- If a seam will be pulled or worn, use backstitch.
- If a stitch must disappear, use slip stitch or a blind hem.
- If you are unsure and the fabric is stretchy, use a catch stitch or a backstitch with loose thread.
- If the item will be washed often, choose the stronger stitch over the neater stitch.
- Practice any new stitch on a scrap before using it on a garment.
Tips for a neat result
- Start with running stitch and backstitch, which cover most repairs.
- Learn slip stitch next, as it closes openings and does most hems.
- Test on a scrap of the same fabric.
Common mistakes and fixes
A running stitch seam pulls apart.
Running stitch is weak at seams. Resew with backstitch.
A slip stitch hem shows stitches on the front.
The needle caught too much of the outer fabric. Catch only one or two threads.
A whipstitch looks bulky.
The stitches were pulled too tight or placed too close. Space them about 1/8 in (3 mm) apart and let the thread lie flat.
Check your result
- You can name the stitch that suits a given job.
- You know when to choose strength and when to choose neatness.