Common repairs

Reattach a Loose Lining

Sew a lining back to a hem or seam where it has come loose, so it stops hanging below the garment. Hand sewing is the right method, since you cannot reach the inside of a finished garment with a machine.

Confident Beginner25 minHand

What you will learn

Slip stitching
Judging lining length
Working between layers

Before you start

Assess the damage. Find where the lining has come loose. Check whether it is a hem that has dropped, a seam that has opened, or the fabric itself has torn.
Check the lining condition. If the fabric is shredded or shattered, particularly in silk, stitching will not hold. The lining needs replacing by a professional.
Compare the lining and garment hem. The lining hem should sit about 1 in (25 mm) above the garment hem, with a small fold of ease to allow movement.
Slip the garment on a hanger or lay it flat so the lining hangs naturally.

Step by step

Turn the garment so you can reach the loose edge. Remove any loose threads.
Fold the lining raw edge under 1/4 in (6 mm), then fold the hem up so it sits 1 in (25 mm) above the garment hem. Press lightly with a cloth.
Pin the lining hem in place so it hangs without pulling. Make sure there is a little slack at the front, so the lining does not drag the outer fabric.
Sew with a slip stitch. Slide the needle through the fold of the lining for 1/4 in (6 mm), then pick up one thread of the garment hem. Repeat along the edge.
At a seam, secure the lining to the seam allowance with a few small stitches, hiding them inside the seam.
To finish, take two tiny stitches in the same place, tie a small knot close to the fabric and hide the tail inside the fold.
Hang the garment and check the lining. It should not show below the hem or pull the outer fabric.

Tips for a neat result

Use a fine needle. Lining fabrics are slippery and leave visible holes with a thick needle.
Leave a small pleat of ease at the centre back of a jacket lining so it can stretch.
Sew at the original fold line if you can find the old holes.

Common mistakes and fixes

The garment hem puckers where I sewed.

You caught too much of the outer fabric. Pick up only one thread.

The lining pulls the outer fabric.

It was sewn too tight. Unpick and add 1/2 in (12 mm) of ease.

The lining tears next to my stitches.

The fabric is worn. Move the stitch line 1/4 in (6 mm) into sound fabric or replace the lining.

Safety and fabric care

Use fine needles carefully and store them in a needle book. Press lining with a low heat; acetate melts easily.

Check your result

The lining hangs 1 in (25 mm) above the hem.
The outer fabric hangs smoothly.
There is a little ease so the lining does not pull.

Stop it happening againCheck linings at the hem each season, as they catch on heels. Leave enough ease when you hem them.

When to use a professionalTake it to a tailor if the lining is torn along a large area, if the garment is a tailored suit, or if the lining is silk.